My family recipe. It isn’t a childhood memory—even though I ate them often back in Poland—but rather the first thing I learned to make with Vera, my mother, after we reconnected.

The first time Vera taught me to make pierogi, I don’t think I quite knew what to do with the new space she was trying to carve out in my life. She was my mother, yes, but also almost a stranger—a woman who had returned too late, carrying her regrets, her cautious movements, and a Polish accent that grew more pronounced whenever she was moved.

That day, however, there was no need for grand speeches. There was simply flour on the counter, still-warm potatoes in a bowl, onions browning gently in butter, and Vera beside me, showing me how to roll out the dough, add the filling, and seal each pierogi with my fingertips. Her movements were precise, patient, almost tender. Mine were clumsy and overly hesitant, yet she would laugh softly instead of rushing to correct me.

I think it was right there—amidst the scent of fried onions and a couple of poorly sealed dough crescents—that something eased between us. Making pierogi together didn’t erase the past, of course. No recipe can do that. But we are learning how to become a family, and I believe that is what matters most.

This recipe makes about 30 pierogi.

Ingredients

For the dough

• 500 g flour
• 1 egg
• 220 to 250 ml warm water
• 1 tablespoon oil or melted butter
• 1 teaspoon salt

For the filling

• 600 g potatoes
• 250 g fresh cheese such as well-drained fromage frais, thick fromage blanc, ricotta, twaróg if you can find it, or well-drained cottage cheese
• 2 large onions
• 30 g butter
• Salt
• Black pepper
• A little nutmeg, optional

To serve

• 1 or 2 extra onions
• Butter
• Sour cream or crème fraîche
• Chives or parsley, optional

Method

1. Peel the potatoes and cook them in a pan of salted water until they are very tender. Drain them, then mash them into a smooth purée. Leave to cool slightly.
2. Meanwhile, finely slice the onions. Fry them gently in butter until they are golden brown and almost caramelized. Add most of the onions to the mashed potatoes, keeping some aside for serving.
3. Add the cheese to the warm mashed potatoes. Mix well, then season with salt, plenty of black pepper and, if you like, a small pinch of nutmeg. The filling should be tasty, fairly firm and not too wet.
4. To make the dough, place the flour in a large bowl with the salt. Add the egg, the oil or melted butter, then gradually add the warm water. Mix until a soft dough forms. Knead for about 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth. Cover and leave to rest for 30 minutes.
5. Roll out the dough quite thinly on a floured surface. Cut out circles using a glass or a pastry cutter. Place a small spoonful of filling in the centre of each circle. Fold the dough over into a half-moon shape, then pinch the edges firmly to seal. You can lightly moisten the edges with water if needed.
6. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the pierogi in small batches. When they float to the surface, let them cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, then remove them with a slotted spoon.
7. For even more flavour, fry the cooked pierogi in a little butter for a few minutes, until they have lovely golden spots.
8. Serve them with fried onions, a spoonful of sour cream or crème fraîche, and a little chopped chive or parsley.

Tip: the filling should be well seasoned before cooking, because the dough softens the flavour. Black pepper and golden fried onions really make a difference.